Vanilla, Lemon and Honey Semifreddo

Semifreddo is an Italian dessert that literally translates as half(semi) cold(freddo). What it really is, is ice cream without ice cream machine. It is frozen and it has the same smooth, creamy, airy texture, though it’s done using absolutely different technique than ice cream.

In fact, the method* of making semifreddo is very much the same as for mousse. So, you may say that semifreddo is frozen mousse. Whereas in ice cream light airy texture comes from ice cream being churned, in semifreddo it comes from the ingredients being whipped before combined together. In my recipe, I separately whip all three major ingredients – cream, egg yolks, and egg whites. The result is a super light semifreddo.

Smoothness and creaminess are a different story, and the secret to a smooth and creamy semifreddo is pretty much the same as for ice cream:

1. Don’t skip fat (cream, egg yolks etc). You might have noticed that ice creams that contain full-fat dairy are, as a rule, much smoother than the one made with reduced fat ingredients. C’est la vie, fat is smoother than water.
2. Don’t cut down on sugar. Sugar doesn’t freeze and will help your frozen dessert stay creamy.
3. Liquid sugars are even better. And there is a variety of them to choose from: all kinds of honey and syrups – agave, maple, rice, corn etc.
4. Alcohol doesn’t freeze either, so adding a tablespoon not only improves the flavor, but the texture as well.

Now, with the theoretical part having been covered, let’s move to practice! And don’t be scared - it’s extremely easy and fast to make and the results are absolutely fabulous. You will lovelovelove it, I promise.

You will need:

• 1 pint heavy cream
• 4 extra large eggs or 5 large, yolks and whites separated
• 1 cup white sugar
• 1 Tbsp honey
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Zest of 1 large lemon or lime
• 1 Tbsp rum or some other liquor/liqueur to your liking

Very lightly grease two 9” loaf pans (or one 9” and three mini 6”) and line the bottom and sides with plastic wrap, tracing all the corners. Smooth it out thoroughly.

Whip cream until stiff peaks. “Stiff peaks” means that when you lift up a mixer, the peak it produces in the whipped cream stays straight up and doesn’t bend over. Once you’ve reached this stage, stop whipping right away. If you continue to whip it any longer, the cream will separate into butter and milky water also known as buttermilk (but not the one you find in stores).

Place the whipped cream in the fridge while prepping other ingredients.

Whip egg yolks with half sugar, honey, lemon zest, vanilla extract and alcohol until the mixture becomes thick, pale yellow and doubled or tripled in volume. Keep in mind that it will stay liquidy and not look as stiff as whipped cream or eggs. Place in the fridge while dealing with egg whites.  

Wash the mixer whisk with soap to remove any grease residue because grease can make it harder to whip egg whites.  You can also wipe the whisk and a bowl with a lemon wedge: lemon juice helps to degrease. Whip the egg whites until soft peaks have started forming. Slowly and gradually add the rest of sugar and whip until stiff peaks have formed.

Again, watch closely and don’t let overwhip! Lift your mixer and check: if the egg whites on the whisk don’t fall back to the bowl and the ones in the bowl stand upright, they are perfectly whipped.

Now, take the cream and egg yolks out of the fridge. Make sure that the egg yolks are in a large bowl, because you will be adding the rest of ingredients to them.

With a wide spatula, gently, but quickly fold the whipped cream into the egg yolks. Don’t add all the cream at once, but in several batches, and introduce the next one when the previous has been completely incorporated. Then, in the same manner, fold in the egg whites. Try not to overmix or the semifreddo will lose its lightness.

Divide the mixture between loaf pans. Tap each very lightly on the kitchen counter to ensure that the mixture has filled every corner. Smooth down the surface with a spatula or a wide knife. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap and place in the freezer for at least 8 hours, better overnight.

Take out right before serving and gently release from the container. If the semifreddo refuses to come out without a fight, run a thin knife around it to ease the release, trying not to cut the plastic wrap too much. Invert over on a cutting board and remove the plastic wrap. Slice the semifreddo into slices. Place on serving plates and drizzle with some sauce or, in my case, top with roasted nectarines and blueberries.

*Another technique for making semifreddo is without egg whites, but with egg yolks whipped with sugar in a double boiler like you would do for sabayon aka zabaglione. Then you mix them with whipped cream and freeze. I myself prefer “mousse” technique: you use whole eggs and, therefore, don’t have to deal with leftovers; also, “mousse” method is easier and perfect even for a beginner cook.